Variable Openmod Part 3 Headset Assembly

  • Information

    I noticed the large lack of headsets in the audio community. So I designed my own.

    Variable Openmod Part 3 is a headset that uses parts that come directly from Part 1. The parts that aren't directly from Part 1 are heavily modified Part 1 parts. Because this is essentially a much more complex version of the Part 1, it is recommended to at least assemble a Part 1 in order to get a general idea on how Part 3 will be assembled and just be easier to figure out. Some parts of the instructions will come directly from Part 1's instructions so you will notice some parts that seem kind of off like the headband.

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  • Be careful to NOT touch the driver diaphragm. It can permanently damage the drivers.

  • The size of the drivers that the pad mount is compatible with are located on the bottom of the pad mount.

    The 52mm pad mount is also compatible with the adapters for smaller 40-45mm drivers that don't fit with the normal 40-45mm parts. Steps for using the adapters with the 52mm will be found down below.

  • There is an open and closed back shell. You will also find that there is a "left", "right", and "neutral" shells. Left shells are for headsets that have the microphone and TRRS board on the left side. Vice versa for the right shell. Neutral shells are for which ever side does not have the microphone and TRRS board. Neutral shells are always required.

  • TRRS 3.5mm motherboard for your reference. Keep this in mind when soldering the left and right drivers.

  • All the nonprinted parts used:

    • 14x: M4x20mm Panhead Phillips Screw
    • 14x: M4 Hex Nuts (DIN934)
    • 1x: PJ392 3.5mm Socket
    • 2x: Dynamic drivers 40-52mm
    • 26AWG wires
    • 3.5mm TRRS board
    • 3mm thick 2-core wire (75cm long)
    • 2x: HM5 Earpads
    • 1x: TRRS 3.5mm Cable (CTIA Standard, should be the most common type)
    • 1x: 3-Pole 3.5mm Microphone

1. Headband Assembly (copy of Part 1 headband instructions)

  • The parts for the headband. The string is just unprinted 1.75mm TPU filament. It's 45cm long. Only one string is used as it's the right amount of stretchiness to act as cushioning. The pad on the right is also printed with TPU. The rest of the parts is printed with PETG. And a total of 2x M4x20mm panhead phillips screws and 2x M4 hex nuts.

  • Start with the yoke and the small peg.

  • Insert the peg into the yoke. It can only go in one way.

  • Next, insert the yoke and peg into the headband.

  • Next you'll need the small clip, hex nut and the 45cm long string.

  • Insert the string through the small middle hole in the bump.

  • Insert the string through the small middle hole in the bump.

  • Next, loop the string into the hole on the side of the clip.

  • Push the string all the way through. The hex nut should act like a ramp to pushing the string outwards. The string also holds the hex nut in so it doesn't fall out.

  • Next, insert the screw. Don't screw it in yet.

  • You want to make sure that the string is clamped in the small crevice.

  • Now, screw it all together. You should not be able to pull out the string.

  • Next, grab the TPU pad.

  • Insert the string through the TPU pad.

  • Repeat the previous steps for a completed headband. Check the Part 1's instructions to see further detail and information. Such as adjusting the TPU pad. Variable Openmod Part 1 instructions.

2. Soldering

  • Instructions will be for left side microphone and cable.

    The instructions for soldering will be for a headset with the microphone and 3.5mm cable socket to be on the left side. If you want to have it soldered for the right side, just swap the top two red cables in the picture.

  • Two tools will be used in the instructions. Not using these tools can make soldering much more difficult and more time consuming. The tools are also free to download and use. The screws in the top, larger tool are screws that you already have: 2x M4x20mm pan head phillips screws and 2x M4 hexnuts. Press here for Soldering Tools

  • Start by soldering wires to the driver and the 3.5mm microphone socket. You will only do this to ONE driver and ONE socket.

  • You will also need the 75cm long, 3mm thick, 2-core wire. Strip it. The red and black wires should be around 4-5cm long. Strip the ends of it. For the 75mm wire, only strip one side, though it's fine if you do it for both sides.

  • Next, you will need the stack of 4 pins. They should be included with the 3.5mm TRRS board. Cut one off. This will be used to solder all the ground wires to it.

  • You will then need the small tool used for soldering 3 ground wires into one pin. The small tool can be a bit tight. You will need to slide it together and pull it apart once or twice to make it smoother. Or just sand the top of the middle piece.

  • Put all the ground/black wires into the grooves. It doesn't matter the order. Also put the pin into the square section.

  • Get the wires as closely as possible to the pin.

  • Solder the wires together. You will most likely need to also solder the other side as well. It's fine if the plastic is slightly melted as seen in the picture.

  • Take apart the tool and take out the wires.

  • Next take the larger tool.

  • Assemble it, but don't screw it in tightly.

  • Insert the wires CORRECTLY. They don't need to be in the hole. You can just adjust them with a tweezer after screwing together the tool. Just make sure the wires are in the correct places.

  • Once all the wires are in the proper holes, tightly screw together the tool. The wires should not move around. If you want the microphone and the cable to be on the right side, just swap the top two wires.

  • You can use helping hands to hold onto the tool using the exposed screws.

  • Start soldering! Make sure the solder fills in the entire hole, not just the top layer.

  • And done. The hardest part is completed.

2. Earcups

  • Start by adding the middle body to the headband, starting with whichever the microphone + 3.5mm socket will be. In this case, it will be the left side.

  • Next, have the 3mm wire go through the driver hole and then through all the loops in the headband. The reason why it has to go through the driver hole in the middle body is simply because you can fit the driver through the middle body hole.

  • Screw the microphone socket into the cable cover. The cable cover will be labeled left and right. In this case, because the microphone and socket is on the left side, you will be using the left cable cover

  • Add the M4 hex nuts.

  • Slide the 3.5mm TRRS board into the slot.

  • Insert the 3mm thick wire into the U-shaped crevice. The wire within the earcups shouldn't be too tight or have too much slack. Too much slack means you might not have enough wire for the other earcup.

  • Screw in the piece tightly.

  • You will now need the pad mount and the "left" shell. Open or closed is up to you. If the microphone is located on the right side, then you will need the "right" shell. The shell will have a "L" or "R" to indicate left or right on the bottom where the shell is least thick/tall.

  • Get the pad mount and use your hands to hold the pad mount and the driver together with the middle body.

  • Now get the shell and hold it all together.

  • Now screw it all together from the bottom. Do it one by one.

  • Earcup with microphone completed!

  • Now onto the other side. First attach the main body to the headband.

  • Strip the wires to around the same as the other side. Which is around 4-5cm.

  • Before soldering, make sure the wire goes through the driver hole in the main body as seen in the picture.

  • Once you have finished soldering, insert the 3mm wire into the grooves.

  • Now take grab the remaining cable cover. Put in the M4 hexnuts.

  • Screw the cable cover in.

  • Grab the pad mount and hold it and the driver together.

  • Now take the neutral shell and put it all together.

  • Screw it all in like for the earcup.

  • Now just add the cable and microphone.

  • Headphone completed!