Variable Openmod Assembly

If you have purchased the speaker box and need instructions on disassembling it press here:
Speaker Box Assembly
Be careful to NOT touch the driver diaphragm. It can permanently damage the drivers.
The size of the drivers that the pad mount is compatible with are located on the bottom of the pad mount.
The 52mm pad mount is also compatible with the adapters for smaller 40-45mm drivers that don't fit with the normal 40-45mm parts. Steps for using the adapters with the 52mm will be found down below.
There are different types of shells. Closed back and open back.
I also made a shell with one piece and two pieces for better customization.
All the nonprinted parts used:
- 10x: M4x20mm Panhead Phillips Screw
- 10x: M4 Hex Nuts (DIN934)
- 2x: PJ392 3.5mm Socket
- 2x: Dynamic drivers
- 2x: Pair JST PH 2pin wiring
- Compatible with most dynamic driver sizes: 40, 44, 45, 50, 52mm
2x: HM5 Earpads
1x: 2x 3.5mm male to 3.5mm male cable
The cable is the same kind of cable as used by Hifiman headphones like the Arya.

For Standard driver chassis assembly (40-52mm drivers)

First start with the middle body and the 3.5mm socket.
Insert the socket and screw it in via the knurled nut.
Optional:
If you're unsure whether or not the socket is tight enough, use some pliers. Make sure to not tighten it too much or else you could damage the socket.
Start with 4 screws and the pad mount.
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Add the driver with the diaphragm downwards. A 50mm driver is used as an example for the instructions. The instructions apply to 40-52mm drivers.
Add the assembled middle body.
Connected the wires.
Now choose the one piece or two piece shell and just put it right on top of the screws.
For the two piece shell, it will fit in only one way so you can't really mess it up.
And then just add the second piece, which you can choose to be open or closed back, onto the screws.
Next add the four hex nuts over the screws.
Then, screw all four screws in. Try getting the pad mount to be parallel to the middle body. Some flexing is fine as PETG is a somewhat flexible filament, just don't try tightening it so hard to where it can damage the drivers.
And of course, repeat all this for the second earcup.

For Smaller 40-45mm drivers using the 52mm chassis.For Drivers with a side wall height of 4.7mm or less.(Not color coded, ran out of black filament)

Start with the 52mm middle body and the socket.
Insert the socket and screw it in.
Insert the 4 screws in the 52mm pad mount. A 44mm driver is used as an example in the instructions.
Add the 'o' shaped adapter.
Add the driver.
Next add a the 'C' shaped adapter.
Add the middle body. With the socket.
Now connect the connectors.
Now add the shell whether it be the single piece or two piece. Then add the hex nuts on the screws.
Then screw in all 4 screws.
When screwing it all together, try to make the pad mount parallel to the middle body and shell. Some flexing of the pad mount is fine.
And now the earcups are finished!

Headband Assembly

The parts for the headband. The string is just unprinted 1.75mm TPU filament. It's 45cm long. Only one string is used as it's the right amount of stretchiness to act as cushioning. The pad on the right is also printed with TPU. The rest of the parts is printed with PETG. And a total of 2x M4x20mm panhead phillips screws and 2x M4 hex nuts.
Start with the yoke and the small peg.
Insert the peg into the yoke. It can only go in in one way.
Next, insert the yoke and peg into the headband.
Next you'll need the small clip, hex nut and the string.
Insert the string through the small middle hole in the bump.
Insert the hex nut into the square hole.
Next, loop the string into the hole on the side of the clip.
Push the string all the way through. The hex nut should act like a ramp to pushing the string outwards. The string also holds the hex nut in so it doesn't fall out.
Next, add the assembly to the headband.
Next, insert the screw. Don't screw it in yet.
You want to make sure that the string is clamped in the small crevice.
Now, screw it all together. You should not be able to pull out the string.
Next, grab the TPU pad.
Insert the string through the TPU pad.
Add the other yoke the same was as before.
Insert the string into the clip.
Insert the hex nut.
Loop the string into the hole on the side all the way.
Add the clip to the headband. And clamp the string inside the headband's crevice as seen in the picture.
Screw it all in together.
If the string is too long, you can just loop it back.
And you're finished!

Adjusting the TPU Pad

Start by slightly unscrewing the screw. You don't need to unscrew it all the way, just enough that you can pull on the string.
To loosen the pad, just pull the string out like this.
To tighten the pad, just pull on the loose string.
Once you are all done with one or the other, just tighten the screw again.

Attaching the Earpads (HM5)

Start by sliding the earcup into the earpad. Start with the corner.
Next use your thumb and push the earpad around the earcups.
Just do it all around the earpads until you get it all the way on. You can also rotate the earpads once you've got almost all of it on to fully get it on.

Removing the Earpads

Put your hand into the earpads, then push outwards.
Next, just pull the earpads off.

Attaching the Earcups to the Headband

Just slide the earcups onto the yokes as shown.
It should just slide right into the holes. You can also push down on the yokes to make sure it goes into the hole all the way.
And just do it for both earcups.
And now you're finished!
The left and right earcup is just based on the cable itself. So whatever it says on the cable (left or right) is left or right for the earcups. So make sure to match it to the L/R on the headband.